Classification is not the product name
The tariff schedule classifies apparel by construction: knitted or woven, fibre content, garment type and gender. A cotton knitted t-shirt sits under one heading; a polyester athletic shirt may sit elsewhere with a different rate.
This is why a broker asks for the spec sheet, not the product title. If your supplier has never been asked for a fibre composition, the classification has been guessed.
Duty is charged on the customs value
Under FOB terms the customs value is the goods price. Under CIF it includes freight, so duty is charged on the freight too. That is the hidden cost of a "freight included" quote.
Duty is never charged on your retail price. It is charged on what you declared the goods were worth at import — which makes the declared value a decision, and an auditable one.
The three scenarios
A $2.60 FOB tee with $0.55 of freight per piece lands at $3.58 under a 16.5% rate, $4.23 under 41.5%, and $4.55 under 54%.
Those three numbers are not hypothetical ranges: they represent different combinations of base tariff and additional duties that have applied to China-origin apparel in recent years. Which one applies to you depends on the date of import and the classification, which is why no honest supplier prints a single rate.
- Base MFN rate on knitted cotton t-shirts: the low end of the range.
- Additional duties by origin can multiply it several times over.
- Rates change by regulation, sometimes with days of notice.
The three errors, and their cost
Misclassification to obtain a lower rate: penalties on examination, and a reclassification that applies retroactively to your entries.
Undervaluation: the duty saved is a few hundred dollars on a first order; the penalty is a multiple of it, and the shipment can be held while it is resolved.
Missing origin documentation: losing a preferential rate you were entitled to, because a certificate was never issued before the vessel sailed.
What to ask before shipping
Two questions: what is the HS code, and what is the declared value per unit. Get both in writing, and pass them to your broker before the goods leave, not after they arrive.
If a supplier cannot answer either, treat the quote as incomplete rather than cheap.